Affecting a potential , units, all Fs, this recall concerned the Daytime Running Lamps. Ford issued the recall number 20C03 for owners to get in touch with customer support and see about having their DRL lights corrected. The F had a very busy launch year in terms of recalls, with five recalls in alone, and one of them resulting in a follow-up recall the next year.
But since February of , things seem to have settled down a bit for F owners. While the F has had its share of recalls, it remains one of the most durable trucks on the market today. Some recalls are going to be a given, and the more you sell, the more recalls you can expect.
Recalls remain valid indefinitely. Unless your truck is totaled, the company goes out of business, or the recall involves parts that are no longer being produced, you can claim your free inspection and repairs no matter how much time has passed. The only exception is tires, given the normal wear and tear that they endure on a daily basis. In other words, tires are supposed to wear down and become unusable after a while, but the vehicle itself is intended to give you, potentially, decades of use before it finally breaks down.
Ford issued the recall number 18S10, offering to make the requisite fixes at their own expense. The Recall As of the time of this writing, Ford has only had to issue a single F recall through , on February No News is Good News? In the winter time they tend to have door issues with the aluminum bodies but since they have issued a recall to revise the issue and have since taken care of the issues.
Overall the F has been great. Also, just received a recall notice. Repairs are scheduled for next week. The truck rides extremely quiet and smooth. Good acceleration. Hydraulic lifters were installed to avoid those issues in the first place. FE dumbbell solid lifters are unique to the engine, but small-block lifters work as long as pushrod length is correct. Solid lifters are a great choice for a budget-oriented highpower or high-RPM combination. They are subject to careful break-in procedures, but once running with the correct high-zinc lubricants they deliver excellent power and reliability.
If you intend to oil the rockers through the pushrods with TD- or Jesel-style rockers you need to use the small-blockstyle lifters. These lifters combine the lowmaintenance features of the traditional hydraulic lifter with the rollerwheel design. These offer reduced wear, reduced frictional losses, and access to some enhanced cam profiles— plus break-in is not required.
With the reduction in extremepressure additives in modern oils, notably less zinc and phosphates, the break-in period on flat-tappet cams has become a much larger issue than it was in the past. While successful break-in is certainly achievable without a lot of drama, the hydraulic roller retro-fit is an inexpensive way to completely bypass the issue.
Hydraulic rollers were never installed in any factory FE applications. The engine was discontinued long before these came into production. But the aftermarket has responded to the current demand by offering new parts that drop right into a normal FE block.
The lifters use a link-bar design to prevent rotation, which is similar to solid-roller applications. All that is required are the lifters, cam, and custom-length shorter pushrods. Since FE hydraulic rollers are newer parts, they have the ability to oil through the pushrods if desired. A true FE roller lifter has the oil-feed hole perpendicular to the roller axle.
A lifter intended for a engine has the oil hole in-line with the axle, and puts way too much oil up to the rockers if used with the TD system. The hydraulic roller lifters are large and heavy, and the only downside is an effective limit on RPM. Combined with the hydraulic design, they are best suited for moderate-RPM street engines with cams intended for a peak RPM at or below 6, Adding more spring pressure helps, but the hydraulic design can only accommodate so much pressure before becoming noisy and inconsistent in operation.
There are ways to work around the limitations but unless race rules mandate the use of a hydraulic lifter, other types are better suited for those needs. These lifters are the best choice when you are trying to make horsepower on a budget. They allow the 7,and-up-rpm levels that fall within the capability of the traditional FE block architecture.
They are simple, inexpensive, and easy to install. If you are intending to oil the rockers through the pushrods for the TD- or Jesel-style rockers, you need to use common small-block Ford solid lifters. The downsides to a solid lifter include the need for careful break-in and proper high-zinc oil, along with the requirement for periodic lash inspection and adjustment. In addition, a solid lifter accelerates the valve off the seat very quickly because of edge contact against the cam.
However, the shape of the lobe limits its opening rate once in motion. These are the preferred choice for serious high-horsepower applications. The basic design allows virtually unlimited RPM potential, and it tolerates and requires very high valvespring pressures.
The cam profiles for solid rollers can be extremely aggressive with very high valve lifts—the roller can accommodate radical lobe designs. The standard FE lifter diameter is the same as other Ford engines at.
Larger-diameter lifters offer advantages in terms of strength, and on flat-tappet cams they allow more aggressive lobe profiles. I see far more lifter-borerelated issues in older blocks from wear, moisture, and rust than I do in new replacement blocks. The link bar is the most common roller-lifter design used in FE applications although other options do exist for high-end race engines.
In order to send oil through the pushrods, you need to use appropriate FE lifters. The oil-feed hole on the FE lifter is at a degree angle to the roller axle.
Lifters from a do physically fit, but the oil-feed hole is parallel to the roller axle, and sends far too much oil to the valvetrain when using pushrod oiling. FE solid roller lifters accommodate high spring pressures, and therefore are the lifter of choice for racing and serious high-performance engines. This set of Comp Cams lifters shows the proper FE oil hole orientation, which is toward the intake valley.
Cam specifications are given in valve movement increments. The various camshaft manufacturers provide the lift as well as duration specs, and most builders select a camshaft based on those numbers. The manufacturers provide gross valve lift, an advertised duration number, durations at. This is good and useful information, but only a small part of camshaft lobe design.
The duration data and lobe separation points are thus an output from the effort, rather than an input. Therefore, while directional information can be derived from those specifications, you cannot assume that they are the entire story. Context is the key in comparing similar cams.
Lift is the maximum distance that the valve is moved from its seat, measured in thousandths of an inch. Gross valve lift, in increments of 1 inch, is determined by multiplying the cam lobe lift by the rocker ratio.
This definition includes a lot of assumptions. First, the rocker ratio must be accurate, which is rarely the case. Next, this does not reflect the impact of valve lash. Last, the valvetrain always has some flex or deflection. It is not unusual to see considerably less actual lift when it is measured at the valve.
Checking lift at each spot in the valvetrain tells you where the loss occurs by comparing your actual measurements to the mathematical ideals. Reducing deflection through use of stronger rockers, heavier-duty pushrods, and better mountings yields a significant improvement in both performance and durability.
This is because of the next variable, which is the amount of time that the valve can be held open at that peak level for maximum flow through the port. This specially developed alloy is much stronger than babbitt and can withstand much higher loads. The trade-off lies in the fact that aluminum alloy is harder than babbitt but is less forgiving with regard to contamination, cam bearing bore misalignment, and less-than-ideal lubrication.
The benefits of aluminum cam bearings, however, far outweigh the compromises. You simply need to pay more attention to details when installing aluminum cam bearings and be certain to verify critical tolerances. Traditional babbitt is designed to withstand approximately 1, psi of load.
By contrast, Clevite's AL-3 material has been designed to withstand up to 5, psi. Schaerer says extra oil grooves are not needed with the AL-3 bearings, providing yet another benefit: the bearing affords a larger "footprint" at the cam bore wall, which more efficiently transfers heat away from the bearing. In addition to bi-metal aluminum cam bearings they've also developed tri-metal bearings that combine the strength of aluminum alloy with a babbitt overlay.
The tri-metal bearings are able to withstand loads in excess of 8, psi. Cam Bearing InstallationIf you're planning to work on an engine block that has been newly reconditioned, you'll definitely need to replace the camshaft bearings, as the old bearings must be removed beforehand to allow the block to be properly cleaned. The following can be used as a guide for installing cam bearings properly. Before starting, make certain that the block is totally clean.
If it's not, then foreign particles trapped between the bearings and bearing bores will cause bearing deformation and reduce oil clearance. As a case in point, earlier small-block Chevy blocks might feature only an oil-feed hole that aligns with the main cap oil passage, in which case the cam bearing's oil hole must align with the saddle's oil hole.
However, even if a full-circumferential groove is present, as we mentioned earlier, it is necessary to position the cam bearing's oil hole at a specific position at approximately the position as viewed from the block front in order to allow cam rotation to create a slight oil "wedge" during operation. This more efficiently creates an oil film between the cam journal and its corresponding bearing.
Also, if the oil holes in a full-groove-type setup are aligned exactly oil hole in the bore saddle and oil hole in the cam bearing , oil pressure can potentially feed-back, momentarily preventing oil from traveling around the journal, which can minimize the necessary oil wedge. Cam Bearing And Installation - Under Pressure When fitting aluminum cam bearings, it's important to allow sufficient bearing-to-camshaft clearance, since the harder aluminum alloy bearings won't wear in as rapidly as babbitt bearings to make their own clearance.
Minimum clearance should be 0. Our Clevite bearing expert stresses that you should not apply oil to the block's camshaft bores or to the outer diameter of the cam bearings.
The cam bearings must feature a dry installation at the block's cam bores. Schaerer also says to make sure you have the proper tools for installing the cam bearings. For example, he recommends using a dedicated cam bearing driver tool, which is available from any engine specialty tool supplier.
At this point, Schaerer says to apply a coating of lubricant to each of the cam bearing's exposed face the inner diameter of the bearings where the cam will ride. You can use either clean engine oil or, preferably, dedicated engine assembly lube.
Think of it as a bit of added insurance, just in case you should forget to apply lube to one or more of the journals. Clevite's cam bearing expert explains why: "Many rebuilders and do-it-yourselfers are unaware that original equipment engine manufacturers OEMs may sometimes install unfinished-size cam bearings into the block, and then machine the cam bearing inside diameters in order to establish correct size, shape and alignment," says Schaerer. Schaerer says that honing bearings to size is not recommended, because honing stone grit can easily be trapped in the bearing surface, and its presence there can lead to premature camshaft journal wear.
This modified camshaft is then inserted and used as a reamer. Afterwards, you'll need to attach a used cam sprocket to the cam and carefully turn the cam by hand, in the direction of normal engine rotation, in order to cut clearance in the new bearings. Clevite's bearing expert says there are also other variables to consider when replacing cam bearings. Casting shifts, for example, can occur in a cast-iron or cast- aluminum block as the block "seasons" during its initial use.
The block can become distorted due to temperature extremes overheating and improper cylinder head installation where excessive or unequal cylinder head fastener tightening had occurred. Last edited by a moderator: Sep 24, Cam Bearing And Installation - Under Pressure Just as a block's main bores can become out of round or misaligned creating the need for align-boring or align-honing , the cam bores can be subjected to similar geometry changes.
This is why camshaft fitment problems sometimes occur when dealing with a used block. However, with a little patience and a close attention to detail during the cam assembly, you can readily overcome such problems. Correcting Cam Bore AlignmentIf the cam bores need to be aligned, it is possible to enlarge them to establish bore roundness and front-to-rear bore alignment.
However, remember, when you enlarge the cam bores, you will also need to address the difference created by the larger bores. This is accomplished by installing oversize-o. Due to the popularity of the small-block Chevrolet engine in performance applications, Clevite offers special oversize-o. These oversize-o. Clevite's SHS cam bearing kit includes five bearings that are all the same size.
Blocks must be bored to 2. These premium tri-metal bearings, though priced higher than aluminum alloy bearings, offer a thin electroplated babbitt overlay for improved bearing surface properties in combination with the high strength of aluminum alloy. The bearing is placed on the drum after the tool is in position. Here is the Gearwrench in use. There is not very much room to work with inside the block, so a ratcheting wrench makes this so much easier than an open-end wrench.
The hardest part of this job is keeping the shaft from spinning while tightening the spindle. A small pipe wrench or slip-joint pliers works great. Then the bearing gets set into position with the correct clocking.
Then the bearing is knocked in place with a sledge hammer. A 3lb hammer is just about right. You want to keep one hand on the plastic centering guide, if the bearing gets cocked to the side, it will get ruined.
Using a flashlight shining into the cam bearing, you can see the alignment of the bearing to the main oiling hole. You need to check this on every bearing. Some bearings have one hole while others have two or three. You can see that this Mopar bearing has the main feed hole on the bottom and two smaller holes up top. These feed the lifter galley, and they are not interchangeable, you have to line them up right.
There are specialty bearings available with grooves on the backside, the grooves allow more oil to circulate around the bearing and out to the block.
Getting the bearings perfectly lined up is not easy; you need to take your time. Here, the oiling hole to the right is just off center. This is acceptable; you should have seen the factory bearings, a couple of them were way off.
One trick for keeping the holes lined up is marking the bearing and tool for alignment. Sometimes, the bearings try to rotate in the bore, making it difficult to install the bearing correctly.
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