I gave up taping off the carpet and flooring and use a drywall taping knife as a painting guard instead. It was quick and easy to use. Simply push it under the baseboard, paint and wipe off the blade once in a while. I have a Cosco brand that has a long handle for grasping at that moment that you realize you leaned too far to one side.
Not that that ever happened to me. Have you ever dripped paint? Have you ever stepped in and tipped over an entire gallon of paint? Ummm, yes, I did do that once. This thin waterproof drop cloth is my newest painting BFF. Rustoleum Spray Paint Handle :. Ever have trigger finger? No, not the itchy kind. The kind that cramps up after spray painting a fleet of furniture. The Rust-oleum Spray Handle is the best thing since spray paint! It fits on almost all spray paint cans except the ones with the built-in-trigger top like shown on the right above.
Purdy Brushes :. My love affair with Purdy brushes may be considered a little extreme. I love them so much that I immortalized two as cabinet handles in my garage:. These are seriously good brushes! Sure, they cost a little more, but they hold their shape and if you clean them right , you will never have to buy new ones! One 2. I admit, I thought this was another gimmicky paint roller until I used it.
The Paint Stick takes a few extra minutes on the clean up end, but not enough to equal the time savings. I have a lot of advice that will not only make your trim look amazing when completed, but will speed up your painting process and give you a finished product that will last for decades.
There are a few different ways to paint trim. You can brush it after installation, you can spray it after installation or your can pre-finish the trim before installation which I only recommend in very few certain circumstances. In theory, spraying your trim is always going to leave you with a better finish. It will be smoother and leave a fantastic looking finish.
In new construction, I always spray the trim, no questions asked. And even if you can see them in the trim around your doors and windows, personally, I like the look of brush strokes, it adds character. Even in my own home, I chose to brush all of our trim when I painted it.
It looks great and I am completely happy with it. To me, the difference between spraying and brushing was not worth the extra work. Because of all this, I am not going to be going into detail on spraying in this article. Painting trim can actually be quite a time-consuming project, especially if you are doing window and door trim. Floor trim baseboards tends to be significantly faster than window and door trim due to the fact the window casing and door casing involve many surfaces, lots of caulking and more nail holes to fill.
Once you are experienced, bedrooms worth of trim can easily be painted in a day. Curious how long it takes to paint a room? To estimate your entire trim painting project, I typically plan on 1. For door casing and trim, assuming you are painting both sides, I recommend budgeting 1. By painting the trim first, you are saving extra prep time later on and creating a surface that will be easier to tape a perfectly straight line on later.
The reason for this is that if you paint the walls last, then when you are painting the trim you can caulk the trim to the walls which vastly improves the look and allow the trim paint to flow from the trim, over the caulk, and onto the wall. Finally, trim paint enamel dries extra hard and this makes it so you can tape off your trim and get a nice clean tape line when painting your walls later on.
If you paint your walls first, taping the walls to paint the trim is extremely difficult and the paint is usually not nearly as hard drying as trim paint, so the paint can easily pull off when you pull the tape.
Also, pulling the tape can lift not only the paint but also the top layer of paper from your drywall and that is a disaster! To prep a room for trim painting I start by first clearing out the room and prepping off the floors. By tucking the tape under the trim but over the carpet, you are making sure there is a clean separation between the trim and carpet that you can paint up to.
After this second row of tape, it will be much easier to pull a drop cloth up to the tape where you are working. Read more on how to paint baseboards with carpet. For solid floors, take your roll of painters tape and run a strip right where the floor meets the trim. Take your time as a perfect line here saves a lot of cleanup time later on. This acts as a permanent drop cloth around the room and avoids the hassle of dragging around your drop and potentially smearing paint drips from your drop cloth onto the floor.
For door trim, you have two options. You can completely remove the door and hinges, or place two strips of tape over the hinge, then outline the door hinge with a razor blade knife and cut off the excess tape so only the hinge has tape on it when completed. Any quality paint job has to involve cleaning of the surface that is to be painted and trim is no exception. If the room is a relatively clean room, a vacuuming with a shop vac should be sufficient.
If the room is a kitchen, where grease has built up over the years, then a mix of warm soapy water should be used to hand wash all the trim. If you are painting your trim white or really any other color , every hole, gap and crack is going to show after it has been painted. All holes will show as a contrasting black and be horribly noticeable. I like to fill all my nail holes with spackling paste. First, the shield design means that paint can't get perfectly against the trim or ceiling, so depending on your standards you may still have to do some touch-up edging.
Second, the paint storage system does add weight — not too much, but enough that you'll begin to feel it over the course of painting a room , especially if you're working overhead. We do love the fact that the same design that allows it to store paint in the handle makes it easier to clean up.
Simply squeeze excess paint back into the can, then thread the provided cleaning adapter to a garden hose or threaded faucet and flush water through the roller. There are a number of Shur-Line edgers, and we chose to highlight the "Plus" model because of its versatility, being able to be used handheld or pole-mounted.
The Shur-Line is essentially a woven-fiber pad with a pair of wheels on one edge. By rolling the wheels along the trim, you get a straight line. This works very well as long as the ceiling or trim item is relatively straight and long.
The Shur-Line has very good line of sight and cleans easily. We do like that the woven fibers essentially leave no individual brush marks , helping the trim paint blend in with roller-applied body paint on the wall.
The self-proclaimed "World's best paint pad" consists of three angled pads and a tray. And they're very useful tools for novice painters intimidated by the notion of cutting in edge paint.
Paint pads are essentially thin sponges on a plastic handle. With no bush marks, the edging paint will blend well with roller-applied wall body paint. They're easier to apply an even coat, and just a bit of lip that extends past the pad edge, so they have very good line of sight to your trim line. The downside of sponges is that they hold less paint and require more frequent refilling. They also aren't as durable as brushes.
Those two factors of speed and durability are why most pros only use sponge brushes on occasion. What we like about this edging set is the variety of sizes and angles the pads come with. Chances are good that no matter what kind of profile you need to paint, one of these pads will be able to tackle it. To the best of our knowledge, there is no Mario companion kit planned as of yet. Despite the manufacturer including photos of using this on baseboard, it's best used as a specialty painting tool for particularly tight spaces where a normal 2-in.
We've included it on this list because it's great for that specific circumstance, but this won't be your primary go-to for edging — it simply won't give you a wide enough band to easily roll the wall body paint against, and there's no point in taking the time to carefully cut-in an edge if you're simply going to smash a roller against the trim.
We've mostly talked about tools to help apply paint. But another strategy for quality edging is to protect the trim or edge wall before painting , with painter's tape. You'll put down tape faster and more accurately with this tool than you will by eyeballing the straightness.
One caveat: While this is great for straight lines, if you're working in a home where things are off-kilter or working with short, irregular lengths of trim, you'll be better off taping in short, controllable lengths. Painting the ceiling can be challenging, but with the Shur-Line Edger Plus Premium and your favorite sturdy paint extension pole, you can quickly and easily get perfectly cut lines around the edges—no more frustrating spots of paint on the walls.
Once attached to your extension pole, the edger easily pivots or swivels as needed, making it a breeze to work your way around air vents or lighting fixtures. Painting high walls presents a predicament: You either need to balance your paint pan on your ladder, or you need to step down to reload the roller or brush with paint every time it runs dry.
However, the Wagner Smart Edge Roller eliminates both scenarios, and instead, holds up to six ounces of paint right in the handle, letting you cover up to 96 feet before needing a refill. And once you finish the project, the roller is washable and reusable, so it will be ready the next time you need to paint. Sometimes, all you need is an inexpensive paint edger for a small painting project or to touch up scuffs or other damage on an already painted wall. For those times, the Whizz Painter Edger is inexpensive enough to toss without regrets once the job is finished—although the pads are replaceable if you want to keep the edger for future use—yet it still applies paint smoothly and quickly, leaving no lint or track marks behind.
On the downside, you cannot attach an extension pole to the edger, and the small handle is not as easily or comfortably grasped as the handle of other paint edgers featured here. Instead of the usual rectangle, this ingenious device has a V-shaped head with just enough swivel to easily reach into corners and lay a smooth, neat application of paint without seamlines, gaps, or drips.
Attach an extension pole to reach corners way up high or grasp the ergonomic handle when working down low. Most paint edgers are flat rectangular pads, which do a fine job, but require slow and careful work.
Some painters, however, are in a hurry. The rollers are washable and reusable. LongArm Trim Smart Edger and your choice of paint extension pole, even high ceilings get the perfectly edged lines they deserve. Unlike most edgers, which only have two horizontally aligned wheels, this edger has an additional wheel placed vertically, so you can change directions without having to lift the edger off the painted surface—a major plus when working on a ceiling high above your head.
It can be tough getting a clean, straight line on a textured wall. A foam pad between the two halves of the plastic guard keeps paint flowing smoothly over the brush bristles, even on rough surfaces, textured walls, or popcorn ceilings.
The Shur-Line Paint Edger Pro view at Amazon solves the annoying problem of wheels tracked with paint by letting you flip the wheels out of the way while dipping the pad into your paint tray.
That, along with its smooth performance and mess-free pad ejection feature make it our top choice. There are two basic types of paint edger: those with pads and those with rollers. Paint edgers with pads basically smear on the paint; the pads are fabric with a bit of texture, so you dip the pad into the paint and then slide it across the wall.
Paint edgers with rollers are much like full-size paint rollers; a flocked roller rotates as you move it across the wall. As a general rule, pads are less expensive than rollers, but pads are likelier to leave lines in the fresh paint. Ideally, your paint edger glides along the wall without catching or dragging. Most—but not all—paint edgers have an attachment point for an extension pole.
Most paint edgers are fairly small, but some are larger than others. If you have lots of wall to cover, however, a larger edger will shorten your work time. Here are the basic steps to using your paint edger correctly:. The cheapest paint edgers are disposable; use for one paint job and then toss. But paint edgers with replaceable pads can last through quite a few paint jobs if cleaned thoroughly between each use.
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